Inclusive Arts
Presents...
CERAMIC PAINTING 101
The Inclusive Arts Ceramic Painting Handbook
Painting ceramics has been around for decades! Many people come into the studio and share their childhood memories of painting ceramics with their mother or grandmother in the 1970s or 1980s, and they are now excited to pass these memories down to their own children or grandchildren. I mean, who DIDN'T have a frog “Scrubbie” holder by a sink growing up?
Some people have never tried their hand at ceramics and have no idea where to start. The great news is, it is easy and a ton of fun! You also do not need to be an “artist” to enjoy this hobby!So, the term “ceramics” can be a little confusing, as it is a bit of a blanket term which can be used to describe various “made of clay” items.
Some Handy Definitions
CLAY: A nice hunk of mud.
GREENWARE: An air-dried hunk of nice mud.
BISQUEWARE: A dried hunk of nice mud that has been bisque-fired in a kiln.
CERAMICS: A finished, bisque-fired hunk of mud that has been glazed and put through a final glaze fire in a kiln.
So technically speaking, we will be playing with: Bisqueware!
Decision Making
So, you have chosen the piece you want to paint, now what? The first decision you need to make is which type of product you wish to paint with! What's the difference you ask? Let's break it down:
Duncan Bisque-Stains:
This line of acrylic-based stains is simply fantastic! These highly-pigmented stains bring ceramics to life like no other product on the market. They come in opaque colors, metallics, glitters, granite/rock-look, and even fake snow! They can be thinned for a watercolor look, or mixed with each other to create custom shades. This product is water-based so cleanup is a breeze (you will want to protect your clothing though, as once dry it does not wash out of fabric well).
Bisque-stains are also really affordable and a little bottle will last you for many projects. The stains also DO NOT require kiln firing, making this overall your most economical choice; however, once you have finished painting you will need to seal your piece. We stock a wide range of sealants, including matte, satin and glossy finishes.
Feeling adventurous? Have you painted a few pieces and want to up your ceramic game? There are a few REALLY cool techniques you can use when painting with bisque-stains. See our Tutorial Section for more information!
Choice #2
Low Fire Glazes:
If you have chosen a functional piece (mug, plate, etc), a food-safe glaze is a must, but many people prefer to use glaze to paint their decorative pieces. It is hard to beat that super-shiny, glass finish! These products DO require kiln firing.
We stock a large selection of low-fired glazes to choose from, which can be purchased by the ounce or bottle, including specialty glazes such as crystallines and matt finishes.
As this product needs to return to the studio to be kiln-fired, you will be provided with a receipt to bring back to the studio so that your piece can go through its final glaze fire. The kiln generally runs once every 2 weeks, and we can provide you with the upcoming dates at time of purchase. You will need to pay an additional “kiln fee” if you are choosing to use glazes, and the amount can be found both on the price tag of each bisqueware piece at time of purchase, or by asking at the counter. Kiln fees generally range from $1 to $5 depending on size and shape.
OK... LETS GET PAINTING!!
Bisque-Stain Instructions:
Before you begin painting you will need to have the following supplies on hand:
1. Your bisqueware piece.
2. A cup of rinse water (don't use your favorite mug!)
3. A selection of paint brushes of your choosing.
4. Newspaper or something to protect the surface you will be working on.
5. A palette or a piece of wax paper to hold the stains.
6. Paper towel or a rag to dry your brushes with after rinsing.
7. The sealant of your choosing.
8. Some awesome tunes for ambiance!
Directions:
Start off by dusting your bisqueware piece to remove any dust particles. Take a minute or two to think about the colors you want to use and the look you are going for. Take a deep breath, start the music, pick up a brush and begin!
You only need to take a very small amount of bisque-stain to start, about the size of a pea, as the stains dry very fast and it will avoid wasting your product! You will be totally amazed at how far this product goes. A bottle will last you a very long time unless you are painting a giant piece.
You will find that the stain goes on very nicely and is a real pleasure to work with.
Some tips:
Ok, your masterpiece is now complete and the stains are 100% dry. Now what?
The next step is to seal your piece. Is it 100% necessary, no. Do I recommend it, YES! Without sealant your piece will be prone to the paint chipping off or getting scratches, and the colors will start to look dusty and dull over time. If you are 3 years old and its just a fun afternoon project, you may choose to skip this step and just put that dinosaur right in the dirt, but if you are an adult who has put hours into something beautiful, you should seriously think about your options here.
Sealants come in a variety of forms and finishes. There are liquid sealants that can be brushed on and there are spray-on sealants. If your piece is going to be outdoors in summer you will want to put a few coats of something with a very hard seal, but if its an indoor decorative piece a light spray can be sufficient. We have sprays in Matte, Satin and Glossy available in studio, as well as brush-on sealant that can be purchased by the ounce. One bottle of sealant will last you many, many projects so it is well worth the investment. Apply your sealant as per the instructions on the canister. You will want to spray this outside, it can be a bit stinky until it dries. Make sure you spray the internal cavity as best you can if the piece will be sitting outside.
Step back and admire! YOU DID IT!!
But wait.... What if I want to use glaze??
Low-Fire Glaze Instructions:
Before you begin painting you will need to have the following supplies on hand:
1. Your bisqueware piece.
2. A cup of rinse water (don't use your favorite mug!)
3. A selection of paint brushes of your choosing.
4. Newspaper or something to protect the surface you will be working on.
5. A palette or a piece of wax paper to hold the glaze.
6. Paper towel or a rag to dry your brushes with after rinsing.
7. The sealant of your choosing.
8. Some awesome tunes for ambiance!
Directions:
Start off by dusting your bisqueware piece to remove any dust particles. Take a minute or two to think about the colors you want to use and the look you are going for. Take a deep breath, start the music, pick up a brush and begin!
Start with small amounts of product as it will go a lot further than you expect and this helps reduce waste! You will get the hang of how much you need as you go.
With glaze, it is VERY important that you put 2-3 coats on all surfaces. If your application is not thick enough, even though it may look beautiful before it goes in the kiln, you will end up with a very streaky-looking piece when it comes out of the kiln, trust me! You also need to let the glaze completely dry between layers (luckily it dries super fast so you will not be waiting long).
Some tips:
Pack your piece carefully and return it to the studio. You MUST bring your original receipt provided to you at the time of purchase for your piece to be kiln fired.
IMPORTANT:
At time of drop-off we will be able to give you an exact date your piece will be ready for pickup!
I hope this information was helpful! If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to contact the studio, either in person or by phone (250) 833-2322 during business hours.
Happy Painting, Friends!
Painting ceramics has been around for decades! Many people come into the studio and share their childhood memories of painting ceramics with their mother or grandmother in the 1970s or 1980s, and they are now excited to pass these memories down to their own children or grandchildren. I mean, who DIDN'T have a frog “Scrubbie” holder by a sink growing up?
Some people have never tried their hand at ceramics and have no idea where to start. The great news is, it is easy and a ton of fun! You also do not need to be an “artist” to enjoy this hobby!So, the term “ceramics” can be a little confusing, as it is a bit of a blanket term which can be used to describe various “made of clay” items.
Some Handy Definitions
CLAY: A nice hunk of mud.
GREENWARE: An air-dried hunk of nice mud.
BISQUEWARE: A dried hunk of nice mud that has been bisque-fired in a kiln.
CERAMICS: A finished, bisque-fired hunk of mud that has been glazed and put through a final glaze fire in a kiln.
So technically speaking, we will be playing with: Bisqueware!
Decision Making
So, you have chosen the piece you want to paint, now what? The first decision you need to make is which type of product you wish to paint with! What's the difference you ask? Let's break it down:
Duncan Bisque-Stains:
This line of acrylic-based stains is simply fantastic! These highly-pigmented stains bring ceramics to life like no other product on the market. They come in opaque colors, metallics, glitters, granite/rock-look, and even fake snow! They can be thinned for a watercolor look, or mixed with each other to create custom shades. This product is water-based so cleanup is a breeze (you will want to protect your clothing though, as once dry it does not wash out of fabric well).
Bisque-stains are also really affordable and a little bottle will last you for many projects. The stains also DO NOT require kiln firing, making this overall your most economical choice; however, once you have finished painting you will need to seal your piece. We stock a wide range of sealants, including matte, satin and glossy finishes.
Feeling adventurous? Have you painted a few pieces and want to up your ceramic game? There are a few REALLY cool techniques you can use when painting with bisque-stains. See our Tutorial Section for more information!
Choice #2
Low Fire Glazes:
If you have chosen a functional piece (mug, plate, etc), a food-safe glaze is a must, but many people prefer to use glaze to paint their decorative pieces. It is hard to beat that super-shiny, glass finish! These products DO require kiln firing.
We stock a large selection of low-fired glazes to choose from, which can be purchased by the ounce or bottle, including specialty glazes such as crystallines and matt finishes.
As this product needs to return to the studio to be kiln-fired, you will be provided with a receipt to bring back to the studio so that your piece can go through its final glaze fire. The kiln generally runs once every 2 weeks, and we can provide you with the upcoming dates at time of purchase. You will need to pay an additional “kiln fee” if you are choosing to use glazes, and the amount can be found both on the price tag of each bisqueware piece at time of purchase, or by asking at the counter. Kiln fees generally range from $1 to $5 depending on size and shape.
OK... LETS GET PAINTING!!
Bisque-Stain Instructions:
Before you begin painting you will need to have the following supplies on hand:
1. Your bisqueware piece.
2. A cup of rinse water (don't use your favorite mug!)
3. A selection of paint brushes of your choosing.
4. Newspaper or something to protect the surface you will be working on.
5. A palette or a piece of wax paper to hold the stains.
6. Paper towel or a rag to dry your brushes with after rinsing.
7. The sealant of your choosing.
8. Some awesome tunes for ambiance!
Directions:
Start off by dusting your bisqueware piece to remove any dust particles. Take a minute or two to think about the colors you want to use and the look you are going for. Take a deep breath, start the music, pick up a brush and begin!
You only need to take a very small amount of bisque-stain to start, about the size of a pea, as the stains dry very fast and it will avoid wasting your product! You will be totally amazed at how far this product goes. A bottle will last you a very long time unless you are painting a giant piece.
You will find that the stain goes on very nicely and is a real pleasure to work with.
Some tips:
- Be sure to always dry your brush on paper towel or a rag after rinsing to avoid watering down your color. The stain will soak in and dry almost immediately.
- You want to apply a nice thin, even coat of the stain. One coat is usually enough, but if you see streaks, add another layer.
- If you do not like the color you have chosen, there is good news, once dry you can simply paint over top with a different color, but you may need a couple good coats to completely cover the first color.
- This one is really important: ALWAYS RINSE YOUR BRUSHES as soon as you are done with a color. Once dried it will never rinse out and will destroy your brush if allowed to harden.
- Have fun playing with the stains. You can mix colors, shade with darker colors and even keep applying new coats until you are completely happy with your final result. Mistakes are easily touched up, just let them dry and then you can go over them.
- If you have chosen a glitter product, this is applied very last ON TOP of color. It is in a clear base, so it is not in itself a color. Example: If your pink unicorn has a glittery horn, paint it pink first, then put your glitter on top of the pink once it is completely dry.
Ok, your masterpiece is now complete and the stains are 100% dry. Now what?
The next step is to seal your piece. Is it 100% necessary, no. Do I recommend it, YES! Without sealant your piece will be prone to the paint chipping off or getting scratches, and the colors will start to look dusty and dull over time. If you are 3 years old and its just a fun afternoon project, you may choose to skip this step and just put that dinosaur right in the dirt, but if you are an adult who has put hours into something beautiful, you should seriously think about your options here.
Sealants come in a variety of forms and finishes. There are liquid sealants that can be brushed on and there are spray-on sealants. If your piece is going to be outdoors in summer you will want to put a few coats of something with a very hard seal, but if its an indoor decorative piece a light spray can be sufficient. We have sprays in Matte, Satin and Glossy available in studio, as well as brush-on sealant that can be purchased by the ounce. One bottle of sealant will last you many, many projects so it is well worth the investment. Apply your sealant as per the instructions on the canister. You will want to spray this outside, it can be a bit stinky until it dries. Make sure you spray the internal cavity as best you can if the piece will be sitting outside.
Step back and admire! YOU DID IT!!
But wait.... What if I want to use glaze??
Low-Fire Glaze Instructions:
Before you begin painting you will need to have the following supplies on hand:
1. Your bisqueware piece.
2. A cup of rinse water (don't use your favorite mug!)
3. A selection of paint brushes of your choosing.
4. Newspaper or something to protect the surface you will be working on.
5. A palette or a piece of wax paper to hold the glaze.
6. Paper towel or a rag to dry your brushes with after rinsing.
7. The sealant of your choosing.
8. Some awesome tunes for ambiance!
Directions:
Start off by dusting your bisqueware piece to remove any dust particles. Take a minute or two to think about the colors you want to use and the look you are going for. Take a deep breath, start the music, pick up a brush and begin!
Start with small amounts of product as it will go a lot further than you expect and this helps reduce waste! You will get the hang of how much you need as you go.
With glaze, it is VERY important that you put 2-3 coats on all surfaces. If your application is not thick enough, even though it may look beautiful before it goes in the kiln, you will end up with a very streaky-looking piece when it comes out of the kiln, trust me! You also need to let the glaze completely dry between layers (luckily it dries super fast so you will not be waiting long).
Some tips:
- Work with only 1 or 2 colors at a time. It can get really confusing regarding how many layers of each color you have put on if you have 12 colors on the go at once. Take your time and really enjoy the process.
- Always work with a dry brush. You want to avoid adding water into the glaze, as this can lead to a streaky-looking finish. When you finish rinsing your brushes, dry them on your paper towel or rag before using a new color.
- Be sure you are waiting until a layer is completely dry before applying a new layer.
- Remember that the colors change in the kiln (intensify), and keep that in mind when planning your colors choices. If you cannot remember what a color will look like after viewing the tiles in the studio, you can take a look at our Glaze Charts. Keep in mind the colors may not be exact depending on your computer monitor.
- If you are painting a figurine there is no need to paint the bottom of the piece with glaze. In fact, it may get wiped off depending what the base is like for kiln purposes (glaze sticks to kiln shelves!).
- If you are painting a functional piece (mug/plate/bowl) you MUST paint the bottom and it will be fired on special kiln stilts to ensure it is 100% sealed and, therefore, food-safe.
- If you make a mistake or go over the edge of a border, let the glaze completely dry and then take a toothpick and gently scrape the glaze off that area, being careful you do not scrape the bisque piece itself.
- You can mix and overlap colors, but the results are hard to predict as glaze tends to have a mind of its own. You are welcome to do this as much as you like though!
- If you have chosen a crystalline glaze, you will find it has little rock-like grits mixed in the glaze. These burst during the kiln firing process and create the cool crystal look. Wherever you see a grit is where your “burst” will happen, so think about placement. You still need 2-3 coats of this type of glaze, so place your crystals on the last coat as they tend to have a habit of “flaking off” when the piece is handled. You will need to transport this type of glaze very carefully when bringing it back to the studio to preserve the crystals. Crystalline glazes are NOT food safe, so they cannot be used on mugs, etc.
- I highly recommend you put your name or initials somewhere on your piece for identification after kiln firing. You must do this with glaze (not a pencil!). If there is a place inside the internal opening you may use that, or something in an inconspicuous place on your piece. You can use the bottom of mugs.
- If you want to plan an intricate design on your piece, it is OK to draw your outlines with light pencil before painting. The pencil will burn out in the kiln.
Pack your piece carefully and return it to the studio. You MUST bring your original receipt provided to you at the time of purchase for your piece to be kiln fired.
IMPORTANT:
- If you do not provide your original receipt we will not fire your piece.
- If you painted with bisque-stains these are non-kiln products and cannot be put in a kiln.
- If you painted with non-studio glazes or alternate products we will not fire your piece even with a receipt, as we would be risking our kiln and all other pieces in the kiln should it not be compatible for our kiln settings and firing temperature schedule. This will have been explained to you at time of purchase.
At time of drop-off we will be able to give you an exact date your piece will be ready for pickup!
I hope this information was helpful! If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to contact the studio, either in person or by phone (250) 833-2322 during business hours.
Happy Painting, Friends!